Magic of minimalism: Panta bhat, or fermented rice

In art, minimalism often consists of simple geometric shapes and symbols. In layman’s terms, it is freedom from the mania to possess. In the gourmet’s view, minimalism in the kitchen must begin with panta bhat or fermented rice.

Cook rice. Drain the water. Once the rice cools down, pour cool water in it and leave it for a few hours, preferably overnight. The pot has to be covered, ideally with a piece of cloth with water standing a few centimetres above the level of the rice. What you have in the morning is panta bhat.

Millions have it in the eastern part of the country including Bangladesh. Connoisseurs will emphasise the minimalist approach and tell you to have it with a few drops of mustard oil, raw onion and chillies. Some add lemon for flavour.

Some add pakoras, usually made from ground pulses. Onion pakodas, too, provide delightful accompaniment. Many have it with pickle too.

However, there is no bar on serving non-veg items, especially fish. In Bengal, Tripura, Assam and Bangladesh, many would savour a lunch with panta bhat and fried fish.

In Bangladesh and parts of Bengal, Assam and Tripura, fried fish (shutki mach) is a favourite accompaniment for many.

Panta appears in different states of India under different nomenclature. It is known as Pakhal Bhat in Odisha and Chatttisgarh, while in Assam it is called Poitabhat.

While serving panta bhat, the water is not to be drained off. Whatever comes in the serving spoon should be poured in the plate.

In summer, this dish keeps the body cool. Farmers derive their day’s energy when they proceed to the fields in the morning filling their stomachs with it. The less active would just doze off for an afternoon siesta after a hearty meal with it. Many say that in the scorching summer of the subcontinent there is no more effective body cooler and stomach healer than the humble panta. That also explains why it has been in popular consumption for centuries.

Researchers in India and Bangladesh claim that fermented rice has more micro-nutrients that freshly cooked rice. They say that calcium, sodium, potassium and iron increase when rice is left immersed in water for a long time.

In fact, when soaked in water the iron content of rice goes up to such an extent that consuming it has major benefits for those who suffer from iron deficiency which is common in many parts of the sub-continent.

In 2014, students of Pabna Science and Technology University assaulted a student counsellor for omitting panta bhat and fried hilsa in the menu on Paila Baisakh, the Bengali New Year.

While panta has been traditionally equated with the bottom of the pyramid, perhaps due to its minimalism, over the past few years, it has quickly climbed up the social ladder with star eateries and hotels serving panta bhat to affluent customers.

In and around Bengali New Year it is easy to find plush restaurants offering panta bhat in earthen plates with onion, green chilli, pakodas and fried fish, most often hilsa. The sight won’t really conform with the concept of minimalism. But then you can blame the deviation to the exigencies of commercialisation in a competitive world.

Despite all the events and madness that surround it, the humble panta successfully retains it minimalistic soul.